Slow Slog to Everest

Nameste!  I arrive in Kathmandu on the 27th of February and will catch a bus to Jiri by March 1st or 2nd.  Going to do the entire hike, with neither porters nor guides. Will go to Lukla, EBC, and then continue on and combine the 3 passes and Gokyo.  After will hike back out to Jiri.

I hike fairly quickly.  Have hiked the Annapurna Circuit (from Besisahar to Nayapul) twice, once at 14 and once at 12 days.  I’m not that fit but really like walking.  

Would be happy to have a friend or two to chill with at night, or just say hi to on the trail if our paths cross.



10 replies
  1. Hey dude – this is pretty much what I want to do also. Was thinking of starting from Shivalaya instead of Jiri but no big deal either way. Also, have you considered walking out Lukla > Tumlingtar afterwards? I have plenty of travel/trekking experience and walk at a fast pace, but also want to be sensible when acclimatizing in the upper levels. I’m in Kathmandu already and just finished some trekking around Pokhara. My timeframe is very flexible but the sooner I start walking, the better! Give me a shout and we can discuss. Ciao –

  2. OK! This is very close to my own proposed itinerary. No guides/porters, walking from Jiri close to 1st of March. 3 passes, EBC and all that, and I was also thinking about Tumlingtar, depending on what date I return to Lukla.

    I’m currently in Pokhara, and just finished Annapurna Circuit from Besi Sahar to Kande in 17 days, so sort of close to your own speed. I will be heading into Kathmandu 25th Feb to get permits and such. I have previous altitude experience up to 6000m and I’m kitted out for -10C.

    I’d really prefer to not do this walk alone. I think we can work this one out! Please send me a message.


  3. Hey hey – I’m meeting up with Ahi on the 27th in Kathmandu to discuss this walk, and am also meeting another Danish guy this afternoon who is interested. Gimme a shout when you get back to Kathmandu and we can talk. – Ashraf

  4. Ok so after a chat/beer with Mads (the Danish dude) about this walk we have a proposed plan…

    Doing the full Shivalaya > Lukla walk doesn’t work for him due to his March 26th flight out of Nepal. Leaving on March 1st puts us a couple days away from making that possible for him. However I was reading about another possibility that could work, and he is also up for it:

    We can take a jeep from Kathmandu > Salleri, which is aprox. halfway from Shivalaya to Lukla. The jeep is direct, costs $30 per person for a seat and is pretty comfortable (ie not a jammed full local transport) but takes aprox. 17hrs (compared with 8hrs for the Kathmandu > Shivalaya bus). There is also a public local bus that does the route with stops along the way and can take 20+hrs at half the price (eeek). I need to talk to someone about the details and how to reserve seats, but the trip looks quite interesting as seen here:

    From Salleri it is a 3-day walk to Lukla as opposed to 6. And to be honest the more I learn about the full Shivalaya walk the rougher and more exhausting it sounds with not much of a payoff. So I’m fine with cutting 3 days off that to work with his schedule.

    From Lukla we carry on with the normal 3-Passes route, return to Lukla (Mads can fly back to Kathmandu), and then we are potentially free to carry on walking the 9 days to Tumlingtar to catch a bus or plane back to Kathmandu.

    It’s a suggestion and nothing more, but it works for the 2 of us.

    Using the suggested itinerary, following recommended and mandatory acclimatization stops, and stating the longer walking times, an approximate daily route would look like this:

    March 1 : Bus Kathmandu > Salleri
    2 : Arrive Salleri, walk to RIngmo (3hrs)
    3 : Ringmo > Khari Khola (7hrs)
    4 : Khari Khola > Lukla (7hrs)
    5 : Lukla > Phakding (2.5hrs)
    6 : Phakding > Namche Bazaar (5.5hrs)
    7 : Namche Bazaar rest day
    8 : Namche Bazaar > Tengboche (4hrs)
    9 : Tengboche rest day
    10 : Tengboche > Pheriche (3.5hrs)
    11 : Pheriche rest day
    12 : Pheriche > Chhukung (3hrs)
    13 : Chhukung rest day
    14 : Chhukung > Lobuche via Kongma La = HIGH PASS (9hrs)
    15 : Lobuche > Gorak Shep (2.5hrs) +
    Everest Base Camp (6hrs roundtrip)
    16 : Kala Pattar morning trip (4hrs roundtrip)
    Gorak Shep > Lobuche (2hrs)
    17 : Lobuche > Dzonglha (3hrs) *Holi Festival Date
    18: Dzonglha > Gokyo via Cho La = HIGH PASS (8hrs)
    19 : Gokyo rest day
    20 : Gokyo > Lungden via Renjo La = HIGH PASS (7hrs)
    21 : Lungden > Namche Bazaar (6hrs)
    22 : Namche Bazaar > Lukla (8hrs) *Finish 3-Passes Trek
    23 : Lukla > Kharte (6hrs)
    24 : Kharte > Pangum (5hrs)
    25 : Pangum > Najingdingma (6hrs)
    26 : Najingdingma > Bung (7hrs)
    27: Bung > Sanam (7hrs)
    28 : Sanam > Phedi (8hrs)
    29 : Phedi > Gothe Bazaar (6hrs)
    30 : Gothe Bazaar > Chyawabesi (6hrs)
    31 : Chyawabesi > Tumlingtar (4hrs)
    April 1 : Bus/Fly Tumlingtar > Kathmandu

    That’s what I’ve sorted so far – we can discuss on the 27th?

  5. Ashraf,
    Good leg work! I was sort of looking forward to the non-touristy long walk in, but am perfectly fine with getting higher more quickly if that’s the group consensus.
    Where should we meet on Thursday? Irish pub?

  6. PS: That bus ride looks INTENSE. Cool video.

  7. I’ve just organized my permits for TIMS, Everest and Jiri – Lukla. I haven’t got the permit for Tumlingtar yet. I’m told that the permit is available on the trails if we decide to go that way.

    A quick reminder to have your insurance policy details handy at the TIMS office, and you’ll need a bunch of photos. I needed 4 for the above three permits. Allow a bit of time for stuffing around at the permit office.

    I don’t know any Irish Pubs around Thamel, but there are probably some. I’d suggest one which is easy to locate near some well known landmark.


  8. Tomorrow is a national holiday (which I highly recommend checking out with a trip to Pashupatinath Temple), so I imagine offices will be closed (?). I will get the permits on Friday morning with anyone else who still needs them. As for tomorrow, I suggest the Tom & Jerry Pub :

    You can also find it on Google Maps.

    It is very near the Kathmandu Guest House and I’ve definitely noticed the sign while walking around Thamel, so must be easyish to find. I’m not sure what time Ahi gets in so shall we say 8pm?

  9. Think I’ve been to Tom & Jerry’s; it’s pretty easy to find. My flight gets in 3:30 so 8 should be about perfect. See you all tomorrow.

  10. Works for me. Look for a scruffy unshaven guy wearing a blue polar fleece and black Tasmanian Devil beanie.