Cho Oyu Expedition (8201m)

Hi I am Gyalboo Sherpa, 23 years old. I am a Trekking guide certified from NATHAM under a Guide Training Course organised by Nepal Tourism board. I have good command over English, Nepali, Sherpa and Hindi language. I have been on trek to the different Himalayan areas of Nepal, Including Everest Base camp, Annapurna Circuit (Thorong la Pass), Rolwaling Valley Trek, Annapurna Base camp Trek, Gosaikunda Lake and many other region. My favourite Trek is Rolwaling valley Trek. I am currently associated with Nepal Adventure Advisor (company). I also work as a freelancer guide. So you can contact me if you want to go on a Trek with me.........

For anyone who has ever dreamed of climbing one of the world’s highest 8000m mountains, Cho Oyu offers relatively easy access.

Despite being the 6th highest mountain on the planet, Cho Oyu has the highest success rate among the world’s fourteen 8,000er Himalayan peaks. The ascent to the summit is short and direct with a few small technical sections which can be climbed safely using fixed lines. The normal route may not be called a technically difficult climb.

The access becomes easier also because of the fact that the mountain can be reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle and one can walk to the Camp 1 in hiking boots. However, climbing Cho Oyu is still a demanding undertaking, the mountain being one of the highest on earth.

Cho Oyu lies about 20km west of Mt. Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border. The mountain is also known as Mt. Qowowuyag and is situated in the middle section of the Himalayas.

An Austrian team first climbed Cho Oyu in 1954 followed by the Indian and German teams in 1958 and 1964 respectively.

Cho Oyu consists mainly of five ridges – Northwest, Northeast, Southeast, Southwest, and West with the Jabula Glacier on the north, Lanba Glacier on the south, and Gecongba Glacier.

Best Season

The spring season of March to May and the Autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Cho Oyu expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavourable time climbing

Recommended Previous Experience

Although Cho Oyu is considered to be less technical than other 8,000ers, it is simply not a piece of cakewalk to climb Cho Oyu. It is also true that getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing especially above 7,000m. Climbers also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator’s colleagues as the perpetrator.” Hence, our actions affect not only our own, but welfare of the entire team as well.

Acclimatization

We are climbing above 7,000 meter. Since such an elevation could cause medical conditions (Acute Mountain Sickness) which could be fatal. There is 40% less oxygen compared to sea level in high-altitudes places like in Tibet. The higher the altitude the lesser will be oxygen in the air. Our body needs few days to acclimatize to this less oxygen environment. Although Nepal Adventure Advisor provides enough information regarding AMS precaution matters, if we get AMS, Nepal Adventure advisor does not have other options to treat it other than medication. Nepal Adventure Advisor advises specially the guest(s) with known heart or lungs or blood diseases to consult doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS.